Remscheid (Germany), May 4, 2023 – This year's ITMA trade show appearance ofthe Oerlikon Group will focus on current challenges that the entire textileindustry has to deal with: creating a circular economy within the textile valuechain, providing energy-efficient technologies, using digital solutions tosupport a sustainable production, processing new materials, and finally thetraceability of all products and the recycling of raw materials used. And thereare certainly many more subject areas that the visitors of the ITMA will havequestions about. Oerlikon therefore invites all trade fair visitors to engagein a dialog with all its experts at its booth in hall 1, B211. On more than 500m², Oerlikon will give initial answers to the urgent questions of the presentand the future and will present its technology solutions in an innovative waywithin its inspiring experience center.
“At Oerlikon, we contribute with ourinnovative technologies for resource-saving use in almost all manmade fiberspinning mills in the world. Our promise for the future is to continue toexpand the zero-waste production approach and thus take care of achieving ourcustomers' and our own sustainability goals”, says Georg Stausberg, CEO of thePolymer Processing Solutions Division and Chief Sustainability Officer of theOerlikon Group. This sets out the claim of one of the world's leading suppliersof machinery and plant solutions for manmade fiber production not only for thisshow: In the future, it will be solely a matter of sustainable innovations.
Circular Economy and recycling? Enablingcustomers to achieve more with less
Textiles are becoming an increasingly big polluter. To tackle the growingmountains of used clothing, it is above all European politicians who aredeveloping a comprehensive strategy for a regulating circular economy. And thetextiles industry is also making its mark with innovative technologies forrecycling manmade fibers. However, there is still a long way to go before wehave a sustainable textile world.
According to the European EnvironmentAgency, the consumption of textiles is already the fourth-largest source ofnegative environmental and climate change impacts within the European Union(EU). A major reason for this is relentless textile growth: the Ellen MacArthurFoundation states that the global production of textile almost doubled between2000 and 2015. And the annual consumption of apparel and shoes is expected tofurther rise by 63 percent by 2030 – from currently 62 million to 102 milliontons – adds the European Environment Agency.
With this market development in mind, Oerlikon is intensively involvedin Worn Again Technologies. The British partnership is focusing on asolvent-based recycling technology, with which both end-of-life textilescomprising polyester and polycotton blends and PET plastics can be convertedinto circular raw materials and fibers (polyester and cellulose). For this, alarge demonstration system for upcycling 1,000 tons of textiles per annum isbeing created in Switzerland. “We are supporting technological innovators suchas Worn Again Technologies because we believe their solution is extremelypromising and because they are driving cooperation between the individualproducers within the value chain. Recycling only works when all playerscooperate in a circular system”, emphasizes Stausberg. He is already looking tothe future: “The time for closed-loop strategies and the correspondingsustainable technologies is now – let’s talk about it at ITMA.”
In terms of sustainability, however, Oerlikon also sets itself highgoals. Stausberg: “It is no surprise that we have applied high standards ofinnovation to our own operations and practices. For several years, Oerlikon hasbeen creating pilot initiatives that we intend to implement company-wide to thegreatest extent possible. For example, we are committed to achieving CO2neutrality in all our locations by 2030 as we have already done at our site inLiechtenstein that provides our blueprint for meeting this commitment. Ourgoals also include obtaining 100% of our electrical energy from renewablesources and achieving the standard of ,Zero Harm to People’”.
In addition to regulatory initiatives,technical innovation is required to connect the beginning and the end of thelinear textiles industry and to close the loop. One decisive circulartechnology here is fiber-to-fiber recycling. Only a few years ago, this processwas used to recycle around just one percent of used clothing worldwide intofibers for new apparel. McKinsey market researchers are now talking about 18 to26 percent being recycled by 2030 – if the full technical recycling potentialis utilized and more textiles are collected. For this, manual processes willhave to be automated, clothing waste qualitatively sorted, buttons and zipsremoved, and fiber compositions unambiguously identified – and all lessexpensively. Separating mixed fibers still represents an obstacle as well.Finally, the recycled materials must be suitable for the spinning process,provide a usable yarn quality and be able to be further processed, i.e., dyed.Despite these challenges, there are promising solutions on the horizon, eventhough some processes are not yet ready for commercial exploitation.
Oerlikon Barmag is offering technologicalsolutions for rPET that enable customers to save million tons of CO2 per year.In 2022, Oerlikon Barmag introduced, a homogenizer recycling line specificallyfor customers in China and Asia where bottle flakes and film waste can beagglomerated, extruded, homogenized and melted to produce polymer melt or chips.It enables the polymer quality of recycled bottles or film waste to beprecisely adjusted to the requirements of different downstream extrusion orinjection molding processes.
Another rPET solution is the VacuFilsystem from the Oerlikon Barmag joint venture, BB Engineering. VacuFil is aunique and innovative PET recycling line, uniting gentle large-scale filtrationand targeted intrinsic viscoscity (IV) regulation for consistently outstandingrPET melt quality. In 2022, BB Engineering launched a patented key component ofthe VacuFil system, the Visco+ filter as a separate and easily integrableupgrade component that enables precise IV setting and pure melt with the helpof vacuum. IV is the central quality characteristic in PET recycling and rPET processing.It determines the melting performance in the production process and theproperties of the end products and is thus essential in the recycling process.The Visco+ process is reliable, verifiable and 50% faster than conventionalliquid-state polycondensation systems.
Energy Efficiency? EvoSteam processrevolutionizes polyester staple fiber production
There is a huge demand for textile fibers: population growth of around 3% perannum, fast fashion and many other factors are fueling this demand. Accordingto international studies, global demand for staple fibers made from polyesterwill total 20 million tons in 2025 – this is approx. 33% more than theproduction volume recorded in 2013. In view of noticeable climate change andits impact on people and the economy, resource- and environment-friendlymanufacturing methods are absolutely crucial for the future. High productioncosts are currently eating into the margins of fiber producers. Noteworthy hereare above all massively increased energy and polymer prices, but water is alsoan important resource today – very frequently scarce and consequentlyexpensive. At this year’s ITMA in Milan, Oerlikon Neumag will be unveiling itsnew EvoSteam process to interested trade visitors, viewed by many process expertsas an enabler for more sustainable staple fiber production in the future. Theobjective of the new development is to lower both operating expenses (OPEX) andthe carbon footprint with minimal consumption of energy, water and polymer –simultaneously with the excellent fiber qualities demanded by downstreamprocesses and high production volumes.
New Materials?
Looking back at the regulations of the European Union, among others, there arealso major challenges for new materials. In that regard the Green Deal can onlybe realized if new European Union policy frameworks create certainty for futureinvestments.
“In the polymer processing industry, we have to come to a sustainable,closed circular economy for packaging materials and textiles, for example, whilesimultaneously intensively expanding the recycling of the materials used. Here,new materials also offer opportunities – opportunities that we as a machinemanufacturer and plant engineering company will exploit. However, compared tonon-biodegradable, petrochemical-based polymers such as PE, PET and PP, theprices for bio-based polymers like PA 5.6. and biodegradable polymers like PLA,PBAT and PBS are not yet competitive. In contrast, the properties of bio-basedmaterials used for consumer products, especially those used in the packagingindustry, are already competitive. It appears compostable textiles will remaina niche market”, explains Stausberg.
“But one thing is certain: utilizingcurrent Oerlikon technologies and future innovations, we will be able totransform virtually any raw material into an ecologically attractive endproduct. The economic questions will ultimately be answered by consumers.Technology is once again enabling us to create a better world”, says Stausberg.
Digitalization and Traceability?
With its sustainable and closed loop-compatible textiles strategy, the EU plansto become a pioneer for the global circular economy as well. By 2030, textileproducts marketed within the EU are to become more durable and recyclable,predominantly comprise recycled fibers, contain no hazardous substances and bemanufactured in compliance with social rights and in a manner that protects theenvironmental. This also includes the introduction of a digital productpassport and the amendment of the European Textile Labeling Act: To implementthe closed-loop principle and other important environmental requirements,players along the value chain must also fulfill new information obligationsabout the composition of textiles. At the show, Oerlikon will present owndigital technology solutions and those that have been tested in collaborationwith various partners for the use in Oerlikon technologies.
Looking into the future with the OerlikonBarmag Digital Twin
The term "digital twin" was coined in 2014 by Michael Grieves andJohn Vickers (NASA) and is used and interpreted for different scenarios: Thesimplest digital twins map a digital inventory list of a real machine, forexample, in order to be able to supply exactly matching spare parts for a customer-specificplant. At the other end of the complexity scale are digital twins that map thekinematics and/or dynamics of a machine or plant. At ITMA, Oerlikon Barmag willpresent a complete WINGS POY winding head as a kinematic model as a digital twin.For this purpose, all essential machine components were modeled as rigid bodiesand connected to each other via joints and contact bodies. The actuatorspresent in the real world were simulated by forces and moments. Analogously,the sensors are simulated by contact bodies and corresponding collision bodies.With this kinematic model, it is now possible to map all the processes thatoccur during the operation of a winding head in virtual space. Customers canthus be offered faster and more cost-effective production solutions.
Market launch of the Digital Academy – itsjust the beginning
Interactive and customized, modular and flexible in terms of time – allfeatures of a modern training concept. Adapted to the needs and generalconditions of the respective student, training sessions should be independentof time and place and the contents should be tailored. This concept is beingimplemented within the Digital Academy at Oerlikon. The digital online trainingcenter, available through the myOerlikon.com e-commerce platform, comprises acollection of role-based e-learning modules on such topics as operation,maintenance and repairs – currently for the Oerlikon Neumag BCF S+ and S8machines. Training is targeted at operating staff, process engineers and technicians,and quality assurance officers. The Digital Academy learning contents will beavailable for the Oerlikon Neumag BCF S+ and BCF S8 systems from ITMA onwards.Further contents will be continually expanded and made available to allcustomers.
Oerlikon Barmag ACW WINGS
How can an upgrade increase Oerlikon Barmag POY yarn manufacturing processquality while simultaneously cutting energy consumption, waste, time andpersonnel? At ITMA, Oerlikon will show its long-awaited upgrade: ACW WINGSdrawing fields. Established technologies can always be made better. When theAdvanced Craft Winder (ACW) was launched in 1998, it was truly convincing withits sophisticated modifications for initial string-up and yarn transfer. WINGSreplaced it as the new benchmark in 2007. However, because Oerlikon Barmagtechnology last for decades, many ACW and WINGS winders are being operatedpractically side-by-side in some places. Customers asked Oerlikon: please builda WINGS drawing fields over our ACW winders! At ITMA it will be shown for thefirst time at an exhibition in hybrid way – a WINGS drawing field incombination with virtual ACW Winder.
Oerlikon Barmag Wiping Robot
Regular wiping of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarnquality. Automating the process with Oerlikon Barmag’s wiping robots, which canbe retrofitted to numerous spinning plants, delivers considerable benefits, asit reduces the yarn break rate by up to 30%, improves process stability andreduces downtime. In addition, wiping robots help to indirectly reduce waste asa result of a 90% decrease in the use of silicone oil spray cans and a 15% to20% decrease in total silicone oil consumption.
New air-texturizing line for POY andFDY
The new JeTex by BB Engineering is a production line for high-qualityair-textured yarn (ATY). It combines an innovative texturing system developedby BB Engineering as key component with state-of-the-art components by OerlikonBarmag to ensure fast production speed, the desired effects, and the quality ofthe product.
Oerlikon Barmag Pumps
Gear metering pumps in textile manufacturing are extremely popular. This isabove all due to the fact that numerous systems are being modernized in termsof their efficiency and specialization. And it is precisely here that OerlikonBarmag pumps are deployed, as those are the perfect solution for nearly everyapplication. The Oerlikon Barmag spinning pumps are high-precision gearmetering pumps in round or square shape for the production of continuousfilaments. Possible applications are the pre-stage production of carbon fibersfor reinforced composite materials with low weight and high resilience or theproduction of aramid fibers. The different fibers are used in quite differentareas such as aviation, sports equipment or safety products. Two large 3Dmodels for spandex and aramid will be on display at ITMA.
Oerlikon Nonwoven HycuTEC
Oerlikon Nonwoven’s HycuTEC inline charging technology is used to createhigh-end charged meltblown filtration media. Introduced in March, it went on towin the 2022 FILTREX™ Innovation Award. One of the reasons HycuTEC won theaward was that the meltblown media treated with the technology requires 40%less polymer (fabric weight) to achieve the same filter efficiency than thenonwoven material that was not treated. In other words, filter specification iseasier to achieve while reducing waste in production. Compared with otherhydro-charging concepts, the unit significantly reduces water and energy consumptiondue to the elimination of an additional drying process and the lower pressuredrop in the filter material. HycuTEC is the first industrially manufacturedhydro-charging solution that can be easily retrofitted to existing systems as aplug-and-produce component.
Captions:
World premieres at ITMA 2023: therevolutionary new Oerlikon Neumag EvoSteam staple fiber process (left) and theOerlikon Barmag ACW WINGS upgrade (right).
Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon PolymerProcessing Solutions Division
About Oerlikon Polymer ProcessingSolutions Division
Oerlikon is a leading provider ofcomprehensive polymer processing plant solutions and high-precision flowcontrol component equipment. The division provides polycondensation andextrusion lines, manmade fiber filament spinning solutions, texturing machines,BCF and staple fiber lines as well as nonwoven production systems. It alsodevelops and produces advanced and innovative hot runner systems andmulti-cavity solutions for the injection molding industry. Its hot runnersolutions serve business sectors, including automotive, logistics,environmental, industrial applications, con-sumer goods, beauty and personalcare and medical. Moreover, Oerlikon offers customized gear metering pumps forthe textile, automotive, chemical, dyes and lacquers industries. Itsengineering competence leads to sustainable and energy-efficient solutions forthe entire polymer processing value chain with a circular economy approach.
Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Divisionserves customers through its technology brands – Oerlikon Barmag, OerlikonNeumag, Oerlikon Nonwoven and Oerlikon HRSflow – in around 120 countries withproduction, sales, distribution and service organizations.
The division is part of the publiclylisted Oerlikon Group, headquartered in Switzerland, which has more than 13 000employees and generated sales of CHF 2.9 billion in 2022.
Forfurther information: www.oerlikon.com/polymer-processing.
Contact:
AndréWissenberg
Marketing, Corporate Communications
& Public Affairs
Tel. +49 2191 67 2331
Fax +49 2191 67 1313
andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.com
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